How To Board Up A Window From The Inside
What are window cills and window boards and why practise y'all need them?
How to cut, rebate, router, ready or replace timber window boards & sills
What is the difference between a window board and a window cill (or sill?)
The large difference betwixtwindow cills & window boards (pictured below) are one is on the outside of the building, the other is fitted on the inside of the house. They are similar but both perform very different roles and are oftentimes dislocated with each other.
To confuse things even more, sometimes window boards on the inside are referred to as window sills or window ledges! Got to love the English language..
Is the correct spelling window Cills or Sills?
From what I can gather, both spellings are used and window 'sill' may be more commonly used these days.
For some reason I have e'er known them to outset with a 'C'!
Why practice y'all need window cills and why do you demand a window board - what exercise they do?
What does a window cill practise?
When windows are installed, they are set back slightly from the outer face of the brickwork.
The window cill is fitted to the lesser and then that when rain water hits the outside of the window, information technology runs downward onto the cill and then drips off, diverted away from the building.
In the higher up moving picture, the groove in the underside of the window cills shape is really important - there so the h2o volition actually drip off. H2o will run to the lowest point before dripping, so without this groove it could keep travelling towards the bottom of the window or the edifice and build up/penetrate causing damp issues.
In addition, the window cills can assist stabilise the bottom of the window and therefore add some forcefulness and help go on it secured in place.
What does a window lath on the inside do?
Slightly different on the inside, the main purpose of the window lath is to structurally complete the window aperture past bridging the cavity gap between the window and the front end internal wall. That is why in the picture above it is much longer than the external window cill.
An additional function of the window board is for it to divert condensation away from the window that has dripped downwards, but in an platonic and well ventilated room there shouldn't be a huge amount of condensation.
Finally window boards also class a prissy ledge or shelf that ornaments or plants tin can be sat on.
How do you fit window cills on the outside?
The most important part is to get the windows fitted right, check-out this expert practise installation guide for more information.
Window cills are normally supplied with the window itself merely the size you demand will depend on the depth of brickwork, how far back the window needs to be fitted and whether or not the brickwork will be rendered or is already face brickwork.
They are really like shooting fish in a barrel to spiral on. At that place is unremarkably a tongue that fits into a groove along the bottom of the window. You may need to airplane a very slight leading edge onto the tongue to get information technology to slide into rebated groove in the bottom of the window.
The window cill should always be fitted and so the baste underneath overhangs the front and sides of the brickwork.
When cutting to length, I add together enough to pass the brickwork each side by around thirty-50mm (more than if the walls are to be rendered).
The depth yous volition demand to 'notch' will depend on how far back the face of the window needs to exist from the forepart of the brickwork and as well whether the wall will be rendered.
Alwaysput lots of exterior/water resistant PVA mucilage on earlier screwing the cill to the window.
Making a window lath to size
You can purchase window boards directly off the shelf made from pine, hardwood or MDF (ideally moisture resistant). They'll come with a natural language already cut into the back similar the picture below to slot into a groove in the bottom of the window. They volition also come with the nosing or rounded over edge already machined down one length every bit well.
If yous're making your own boards which is sometimes better if you want the timber to match because the window and lath are both beingness stained, or you demand a deeper than usual board and so you'll need a router with a circular-over fleck to shape the nosing and a straight router cutter for the rebate.
It is possible to make the rebate with a circular saw if y'all don't have a straight cutter.
The measurements for your window boards will depend on whether the wall is beingness plastered, plaster-boarded or covered with something else. I always aim to stop up with around 50mm extra width on each side, and a 25mm projection at the front.
- Step 1: Work out the right window board width
Measure the width of the opening/window, add 100mm for the overhang (50mm each side), add the thickness of plaster/plasterboard that's going on the walls and cut the window board to that width.
Those projections look fine and are in proportion, unless you are replacing an existing sill in which case you should friction match to the rest of the business firm.
The just other time I change that is when I'm working on Victorian box sash window boards where the architrave is mitered round the window and sits down onto the window cill.
In this instance I add extra depending on the size of the architrave being used. In that location's more info about fitting architrave moldings to Victorian sash window cills on the bottom of the architrave page.
Step ii: Machining the bullnose edging onto the window cills
Use a router with a rounding over cutter bit and guide to motorcar a Bullnose edge onto the lath.
Some people prefer to push the router away from themselves I prefer to walk backwards pulling the router towards me, patently making sure the coast is clear get-go! The picture below shows the direction I use the router in while standing at the bottom. Once one side is washed, flip it over and machine the bottom of the window cill too earlier finishing off with sandpaper.
One time the edge is rounded over yous can cut the notches out of the dorsum corners and rip the back off to the correct depth (Depth of groove in window + board + overhang).
- Step 3: Rebate the dorsum to slot into the groove in the lesser of the window
Y'all can use a directly cutter in your router to cutting the rebate or set the circular saw to the desired depth so use the fence to set the width of the tongue. I always brand it ane-2mm shorter than the depth of the groove and put loads of wood glue on the back before sliding the tongue into the rebate on the window.
How practise you lot ready window boards securely to the wall and window?
At that place are several different methods y'all tin utilize to fix window boards in place. Y'all can simply glue them down with Gripfill or expanding foam and weigh them down with something till the glue goes off.
I effort to avoid visible fixings on finished work unless its being painted but sometimes it's necessary to drill pilot and countersink holes in the tiptop of the board before screwing downward into the masonry or stud work.
When I'm fixing window boards to masonry that hasn't been plastered yet I slot the tenon into the window rebate and mark the edge of the brickwork along the underside of the window board. Remove it, plough it over and screw a couple of Lateral restraint straps (really inexpensive) or L - brackets to the bottom of the board no more than than 300mm apart.
Using lateral restraint straps to set up window boards ways yous can suit the front end edge of the board upward and downward before screwing the strap to the brickwork. These are then plastered over and hidden
Sometimes I put a very slight fall on the window cill and so if there's any condensation it will run toward the forepart of the board non towards the bottom of the window (peak green arrow higher up) where it will sit, eventually rotting the timber or causing mould.
Before the plasterer gets in to plaster the wall, squirt some expanding foam into the gap to really secure the window board too and preclude it coming loose over time.
If working in a stud-work wall, once the window boards are installed the plasterboard can be cut and fitted.
Utilize the comments box below to provide your ain tips and tricks when it comes to plumbing fixtures window cills
Source: https://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/window-cills.html
Posted by: pressleybrover.blogspot.com
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